The Factory Kitchen occupies a slightly odd location, a tight room, the former loading dock of Three Star Fish, in an old manufacturing complex that has been converted into luxury lofts.

The floors are of cracked concrete, the massive pillars betray several layers of peeling paint, it is an industrial space, slightly awkward, almost willfully unchic, and the customers tend to be a few years older than the people who frequent nearby restaurants.

At the Factory Kitchen serve the unique Focaccia di Recco, you can get yours stuffed with ham or slicked with tomato sauce and strewn with cured anchovies, but the additions are almost beside the point.

The essence of the Factory Kitchen’s focaccia di Recco is all in its ethereal crunch.

The mandilli, a delicate handkerchief pasta, served as sheets crumpled over a pesto thickened with almonds instead of pine nuts is also what the restaurant is famous for.